Cross-Post: The Intentional Torte at EagleiOnline

Hey Folks,

Not that most of you don't already know this, but I've been writing a weekly column for the BCLS independent newsblog, EagleiOnline. My column, the Intentional Torte, features both recipes and "local color" on the culinary/foodie scene here in Boston. You have to have a BC email address to comment, but I believe you can view the site without it.

Would love to hear feedback on the columns (there have been about a half dozen so far) and any suggestions you might have for future recipes. I am not cross-posting in reverse because I don't want random strangers reading about my more embarrassing moments.

Oh, wait, I write about them on a blog, which is accessible to anyone and everyone with an internet connection.

Well, I never wanted to run for public office anyway. :0)

In the meantime, I am going to write a non-EiO entry soon. In the meantime, check things out on the other site!

Haymarket Redux

My CSA is (finally) started to wind down - I got only one bag of produce this week, which is great because my freezer is stuffed and I don't have any tupperware left to house the dozens of containers of soup, chili, etc, even if there were freezer space left.

In addition to my (smaller) CSA pickup, I was feeling antzy and wanted to go apple picking this past weekend but my plans fell throug. Instead, I went to Haymarket. Haymarket is a large outdoor market in downtown Boston that is pretty much the antithesis of a farmers' market. The produce at Haymarket is the antithesis of farmers’ markets. The produce there is not local or organic; it is not fresh; you do not meet the people growing your food, and its carbon footprint is probably enormous.

However, it is cheap. CHEAP Cheap cheap. Ten bananas for $1. Four pounds of peaches (slightly bruised) for $2. A box (probably 40) slightly mushed Roma tomatoes for $8. It is not pretty but it is cheap and T-accessible and has a certain strange charm in that dirty, noisy, rude Boston kind of way. And I love it.

While I was there, I bought 4 lbs of not-squished roma tomatoes and 4 lbs of slightly squished peaches, and 1 lb of white mushrooms and 5 heads of garlic and 2 pints of raspberries and 1 bunch of thick-ish asparagus with slightly mushed tops. I spent about $15 and could barely stagger home under the weight of my groceries.

When I got home, I took the tomatoes and 1 head of the garlic (roasted) and some home-dried herbs and made a vat of tomato sauce (which cooks down to a depressingly small amount, to be honest). And then I made another batch of corn chowder with the leftover corn from last week. I then threw half the mushrooms and some of the garlic and all of the asparagus into a yummy risotto and then, two days later, threw another head of the roasted garlic, the rest of the mushrooms, along with some other veggies, into a homemade tomato sauce that was awesome. That pasta sauce went with (shockingly) pasta, and Austin and Arianna came over and had that, along with a Greek salad for dinner. For dessert, I made something super-easy with the peaches, which had been ripening for a couple days in a brown bag on the counter. The peaches from Haymarket do not have the lovely texture of local peaches, but they are perfect to cook with. I used some puff pastry to make the recipe below – frozen puff pastry is super-easy, lives well in the freezer when you don’t need it, and cooks up very quickly in the oven while you’re doing other things.

Peach Turnovers

6 6”x 6” squares of puff pastry
1 tbsn unsalted butter
2 medium peaches, pitted, skins removed, sliced into ½” chunks
1 tbsn cornstarch (or other starch)
1 tsp. lemon juice
3 tbsn sugar
~1/2 tsp. cinnamon
~1/4 tsp. ground cloves (to taste)
~1/2 c. water
1 egg + 1 tbsn water

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Coat a non-stick pan with vegetable oil-based cooking spray. Take out puff pastry from freezer and thaw.

2. In a medium saucepan, melt butter over medium heat. Add cornstarch, lemon juice,2 tbsn. sugar, cinnamon, and water. Stir until mixed, butter is melted and mixture is starting to bubble. Add peaches and cook, stirring regularly, until peaches are soft and sauce is thickened and peach-tasting. Adjust spices as needed.

3. Prick thawed puff pastry squares all over with a fork (set fork aside for a second). In the middle of each square, place about a tablespoon of peach mixture (chunks and sauce). Gently fold the squares diagonally in half. With the fork, crimp down the diagonal edges. Repeat with all six squares. (If you have extra peaches, eat them with a spoon out of the saucepan - they are that good).

4. Mix the egg and 1 tbsn. water in a glass or pinch bowl. Brush each pastry with the egg wash and check edges again. Pop in oven and bake about 20 minutes or until browned on top and bubbly. Serve warm with ice cream or cold for breakfast.

Veggie-Mania

The CSA is going full tilt even as the leaves are starting to turn. I have been completely inundated with corn and tomatoes and have no idea what to do with myself. The fridge is a vegetable minefield. I have no freezer space left, even after giving away food right, left and center. My friends are starting to say "no" to the vegetables. Well, some of them, anyway. The other friends have their mouths full, so they can't say no.

In all of this chaos, the only thing to do is make soup. I've become completely enamored of homemade soup, as I have previously posted, but I have to say that my soups have really gotten to the next level this summer. Mark Bittman wrote about the joys of preserving summer produce in soup form in one of his recent NYTimes posts, and the recipe below is adapted from his corn chowder recipe. I like that it is simple but not Johnny-One-Note on the corn. Without the half and half, this soup freezes incredibly well. Thaw before reheating - otherwise the veggies will get all starchy from the microwave.

Corn Chowder with Potatoes and Peas

1 tbsn butter
1 medium onion in 1/2" dice
4 cups water
4 cups vegetable stock (homemade or whatever)
4 ears corn, husked and cleaned of thread, kernels planked (retain cobs)
1/2 package (about 1 1/2 cups) baby peas
5 medium-size yukon gold potatoes in 1/4" dice
2 cups baby carrots in 1/2" pieces
salt and pepper to taste
1/2 tsp. liquid smoke (optional, and only if you would otherwise want to add some kind of smoked meat to this recipe. You know who you are).
half and half, for serving (optional, or go for fat-free)

1. In a medium saucepan, melt butter over medium-high heat. Saute onion until golden and translucent. Add water, stock, and corn cobs. Bring to a boil and then reduce to a simmer. Simmer, uncovered, for 45 minutes.

2. After 45 minutes of simmering, add the potatoes and carrots. Bring back up to a boil and boil briskly (carefully avoiding boiling over) for about 15 minutes. Reduce to a simmer, remove cobs and check potatoes and carrots - they should be done but not totally mushy. Add corn kernels and peas and stir for about 5 minutes more. Remove from heat and let cool 15 minutes. Using an immersion blender, puree about half of the soup (don't burn yourself) in the pan, then stir to further blend. Add salt and pepper to taste.

3. Serve as is or with a dollop of half and half (I use fat free) to bring it all together. Great with a crusty piece of bread.

Enjoy!

Notes from the Eastern Shore

Dear Blogosphere,

This post is coming to you from the beautiful Eastern Shore of Maryland. It is late afternoon and I am taking a break from editing Beloved Professor's new con law article to bring you this late breaking news flash:

Life is good.

How is it good, might you ask? It is good in many ways. Last week was a little stressful for me. I was studying for (and, consequently, took) a standardized test that is a pre-requisite for sitting for the bar exam. More importantly, I was waiting around, trying not to be impatient, while Big Boston Firm took its time to evaluate my summer work and its own needs/wants/desires to determine whether it would like to give me a job. The additional good news is that they decided to make me a permanent offer. Yay! Very exciting news (particularly given the law school loans and the downturn in the economy). Think of how many cooking gadgets a first year associate salary could buy!! The mind boggles.

In any case, the shore has been a great respite from the stress, particularly because every type of delicious produce known to man is in peak season. The corn - OMG! - it is amazing! The peaches are the earthly embodiment of the Divine - the most delicious things in the world. The tomatoes are so fresh, they melt in your mouth. To that end, I used the veggies at hand as they were intended to be used - as close to fresh-picked as possible.

To that end, I made a frittata with the fresh produce and some fresh herbs from the farmers' market that I thought was pretty groovy. This is NOT a traditional frittata (which means "fried" in almost all Romance languages) because it is not cooked on the stove and finished in the oven, but is primarily cooked in the oven. This is because I am not capable of doing a frittata in an oven-safe AND range-safe pan. I spend hours scraping charred egg out of my lovely cast-iron, and I therefore refuse to do the whole stovetop-to-oven thing. You could add corn shaved from the cob to this recipe and it would also be good. Or green beans. Or spinach. Really, any veggies you have on hand that go well with salt (so, not beets or carrots) would work well here. It's a great meal for dinner when paired with a salad and some rolls, or for lunch or breakfast as-is.

More postings later - hope you all enjoy the produce.

That's A Lotta Frittata

1 large or 2 medium ripe tomatoes, sliced in 1/4" horizontal slices
2 large zucchini or yellow squash, also in 1/4" slices
1/2 medium onion in 1/4" dice
2/3 c. shredded low-fat sharp cheddar or other cheese with a bite
8 eggs or equivalent fake egg product (I like EggBeaters, but whatever works for you)
1/4 c. chopped fresh herbs (I like a mix of thyme, oregano and basil, but whatever you have handy would work)
salt and pepper to taste
1 tsp. butter
1 tsp. EVOO or cooking spray
1 small frying pan
1 non-stick pie tin or tart pan

1. Preheat the oven to 375. Thoroughly grease the pie tin/tart pan with cooking spray or EVOO. In the frying pan over medium heat, cook the onions until beginning to turn golden brown (about 7 minutes). Add the butter and cook until a nice deep golden color has developed. Remove from heat and place in medium mixing bowl (set aside to cool).

2. Spray the skillet with cooking spray. Mix the grated cheese and chopped herbs together. Layer the veggies and cheese in the following order: zucchini, 1/2 cheese, tomatoes, 1/2 cheese.

3. When the onions are cool enough to handle (lukewarm), crack the eggs into the bowl (beware of shell fragments) and whisk the eggs, 1/4 c. water, a generous pinch of both salt and pepper, and the onions together. Pour into the baking tin. Make sure that the upper layer of cheese is submerged (you may press down on the veggies/cheese to achieve this).

4. Pop in the oven (to avoid burns, try doing so on the baking sheet) and bake for 35-45 minutes. If the top seems to be browning too quickly, cover with foil. Watch the frittata after the first 30 minutes. It is done when the center is set and the top is golden brown and slightly crispy. Serve warm or cold, depending on the occasion.

CSA Heaven/Hell

Hello Friends,

It's been a few weeks since I posted, and what a few weeks it's been. My CSA has been going strong (yay) and my remaining tomato plants have little green tomatoes that are (slowly) growing toward fruition. All of this is wonderful, except for the part where, as a result of my job at Big Boston Firm, I am never home. I am almost to the point where I will have to drop off food at people's houses, ring the bell, and then run away before they know it was me.

Of course, the zucchini frittata on the front step might give that away.

One of the things I like about keeping kosher is that it requires mindful eating. No matter where you fall on the spectrum (if, like me, you believe that there is such a thing), from mashgiach to "everything but bacon", if you keep kosher to any degree, you are thinking about what you are putting into your body, what you consume, where it comes from, and how it got to you.

I was contemplating this yesterday afternoon as I meticulously inspected and pitted sour cherries. The cherries in question had come from a cherry tree in my friends' yard (thanks Jane and Brett!) that had been sadly neglected by J&B's landlord. As a result, the tree had lovely fruit but a roaring fruit fly infestation. Hence my careful cherry-by-cherry inspection. Keeping kosher for me means not eating bugs (at least, not those that can be avoided by careful inspection), so I went through and checked each cherry for any blemishes, then hand pitted the good cherries, and plopped them into the sugar and cinnamon and blueberries. Of the fruit I picked, about half made it into the cherry-blueberry cobbler I made last night. I stole, I mean adapted, the recipe from 101 Cookbooks, which is one of my favorite cooking blogs (find the recipe here). Needless to say, a careful perusal of 200 cherries is time consuming, but it was nice to know that I was eating local (and presumably organic, if you can call it organic with the ground-level pollutants that may linger in Somerville back yards) cherries that I had picked myself.

In addition to the cherry-blueberry cobbler (a la mode), we had Greek salad with cucumber, arugula and mesclun from my CSA, and zucchini-corn quesadillas with zucchini and corn from my CSA. I've included the zucchini and corn quesadilla recipe below. I will admit that, had I had less time, I would happily use canned "refried" beans in this recipe - TJs has a mix that is totally awesome. If you were feeling really ambitious (clearly I was not), then you could start with dried pinto beans or similar white beans, soak them for 24 hours, boil them, and then begin with the recipe below. Any of these three options would be acceptable. Do what works for you.

Zucchini-Corn Quesadillas
1 large zucchini, washed, stems removed, in 1/2" dice
1 ear corn, husked, kernels cut off with a sharp knife (try not to hurt yourself while doing this).
1 medium onion in 1/4", divided
1 can pinto beans
2 cloves garlic, minced or put through a garlic press
salt and pepper to taste
3 whole wheat regular-size tortillas (or other tortillas of your choice)
1 1/2 cups low-fat shredded cheese (mexican-style blend, if you can find it, mild cheddar or pepper jack if you can't)
6 tsp EVOO, divided
1/2 cup each sour cream and salsa, for serving

1. In the skillet, place 2 tsp of EVOO and heat to medium-high. Add half the onion and cook until translucent and beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook about 30 seconds. Add can of beans (including juices). Cook, stirring occasionally, about 5-7 more minutes. Remove from heat. With a potato masher or fork, squish the beans until the mixture resembles a thick paste. If the beans are too chunky, add a couple tablespoons of water. Season with salt and pepper (easy on the salt). Transfer beans into a tupperware container. Rinse out the skillet.

2. Put the skillet back on the heat, add 2 more tsp. EVOO, and add the remaining half of the onion. Again, cook until translucent. Add zucchini and cook, stirring frequently, until zucchini is falling apart and browning in places, about 10 minutes. Add corn and cook an additional 2 minutes. Put in a second tupperware container and wipe out skillet.

3. Assemble the quesadillas. In each tortilla, spread about 1/4 cup of the bean mixture on one half of the tortilla. Sprinkle about 1/2 cup of cheese over the beans. Cover with about 1/3 cup of the zucchini-corn mixture. (You can fiddle with these proportions depending on your taste). Repeat with the remaining two tortillas. You will probably have some leftover zucchini mix and beans (dinner tomorrow night too). Fold each tortilla in half to create a half circle of deliciousness.

4. In skillet, pour a scant amount of EVOO (1/2 tsp?) and heat over medium-high. Swirl oil around in pan, then add the quesadillas. Cook on bottom until brown and crispy (keep an eye on it to avoid scorching) and then gently flip over to brown the other side. Repeat with remaining quesadillas. Serve with sour cream and salsa.

Enjoy!

The Calzone of Frustration

Well, everyone, happy 4th of July.

I have to say, as much as I try for optimism, balance and harmony in my life, I am feeling a little blue. Well, at least frustrated.

I spent most of the long weekend in transit - to and from downtown on Thursday and Friday and to and from Maine on Saturday and Sunday. On the 4th itself, I managed (for the first time in a LONG time) to get totally soused, and spent the morning of the 5th sweating and trying not to throw up on the train to Maine. When I got there, my haphazard attempts at sunblock application has resulted in a look that I can only refer to as "spotty lobster." Curse my Anglo-Saxon heritage that resulted in this alabaster skin.

Second, I returned to find that someone has stolen my tomato plant. Who DOES THAT?!?!?!?! Seriously, not cool. Thankfully, I had two different tomato plants that were hidden and thus not stolen, but I still am feeling pretty crap about the tomatoes that were stolen. I hope, as an act of karma, that the tomatoes are secretly infested with aphids that will decimate the measly garden of the tomato thief.

Third, I have a lingering cough from the cold I got two weeks ago that just will not go away. Air conditioning (and the resultant dry air) seem to be making it worse, so I have turned off the a/c in the hopes that the more humid air will be better. So far, the cough is the same but my apartment is reaching a sauna-like temperature.

Finally, I am mildly wrapped around the axle about my single status. I spent the weekend with one of my best friends, a person who has seen me through tough times, and whom I love dearly. However, she has just started seeing this boy, and they text 20 times a day. Each. My other friend and I had to announce moratoria on texting while driving and texting while in mid-conversation. It's just rude, and I don't care how much you are smitten with someone, it is not acceptable in anyone over the age of 16. However, I'll admit that I was also annoyed by it because it was such an in-your-face reminder of my own lack of text messages.

In fact, I had sent a text off into the void this afternoon, hoping for an answer, and was met with...nothing. I'm hoping that the nothing is the result of busy-ness, or a lack of cell reception/charging, and not a sign that I'm not on the text-back list. Anyway, it's Sunday and I am tired and feeling crappy and I probably shouldn't be cooking like that, but I did cook, and it turned out great. I added extra spices and flavors to try and work out my frustration - not at the incommunicado person, but at myself, for not being able to just be happy by myself and without the reassurance of a returned text. I just wish I could be as secure in the whole dating thing as I am in every other aspect of my life. Like cooking. Anyway, here is my recipe for a dish I name the Calzones of Frustration.

Calzones of Frustration
(makes 4 large or 6 medium servings)

Filling:
2 large bunches (about 10 cups, packed) swiss chard and/or spinach, washed, spun dry, trimmed and cut into large pieces
1/2 medium sweet onion, thinly sliced
1 tbsn EVOO
salt and pepper to taste
1 1/2 c. ricotta (cottage cheese would also work)
2 eggs
1/4 fresh or store-bought pesto (be careful with rennet in store-bought varieties)
1/4 c. grated kosher parmesan cheese

Dough (adapted from How to Cook Vegetarian by Mark Bittman):
3 c. all-purpose flour
2 tsp (one packet) instant quick rise yeast
2 tsp kosher salt
1 c. warm water
3 tbsn EVOO
a pinch each of rosemary, garlic powder, and chili flakes

1. Preheat oven to 475 degrees (this will take a while). If you have one, put the pizza stone in to warm up.

2. Make the dough. Mix the dry ingredients other than the yeast together to blend. Pour yeast on top, followed by water. Mix until a dough begins to form. Add olive oil and knead for about 1 minute. Cover with a warm, damp kitchen towel and place in a warm spot to rise about an hour.

3. Meanwhile, in a large, deep skillet over medium heat, cook the onions until soft and beginning to brown. Add tablespoon of olive oil and continue to cook until approaching golden brown. Add chard/spinach and salt and pepper. Cover and let cook down, stirring occasionally. Set aside to cool.

4. While the greens cool, mix together the ricotta, pesto, parmesan and 1 egg.

5. When dough is risen and puffy, remove from mixing bowl and punch it down. divide it into four roughly-equal pieces. Knead each for a few turns, then flatten (either with your fingers or with a well-floured rolling pin) into disks about 8" in diameter. Layer greens and cheese in a half-moon on one side of the dough, leaving a 1" border of plain dough. Repeat with all four pieces.

6. Beat the remaining egg with a little water until scrambled. Brush the egg along the dough border and fold the remaining half-moon of dough over the filling, pressing to seal the seam and then folding the edge inward. Brush the top of each calzone with egg wash and cut a slit or two in the top to all steam to vent. Transfer to a pizza peel well-coated with corn meal.

7. Place on pizza stone in oven and bake 12-15 minutes, checking after 10 minutes, until golden brown. Let cool 10 minutes before eating. Serve with tomato soup or marinara sauce.

Hoping tomorrow will be better. At least I had a good dinner. :0)

Sometimes, I Just Want A Sandwich

Well, blogosphere, it has been a crazy few weeks. I have hardly had the chance to catch my breath here at the KosherHome between my five year(!) college reunion, my sister's graduation, and a visit from my parents, not to mention long hours at Big Boston Firm (see previous post).

Several important events have occurred since I last posted. First, I planted my container garden and got it going. My herbs are doing wonderfully thanks to the charming Boston weather (I never have to water the plants - is this a great city or what?) but my tomatoes are suffering from a lack of adequate light. Thus, I am farming them out (so to speak) to my friend Matt, whose back patio gets better sun than my fire escape. I told him I'd kick in for a canning set-up so we can cook and can the tomatoes (which, if his 10 plants are any indication, will take up my entire cupboard and his) for the winter. In the meantime, I must further experiment with good marinara sauce recipes so that the onslaught of tomatoes will be fully prepared.

Second, I started working at Big Boston Firm. So far, so good - I love the people I'm working with, the work is interesting, and we (the chosen many of the BBF's summer associate program) are forever being taken to swanky venues for episodes of conspicuous consumption aimed at...something. Proving how much BBF loves us? Showing how big and powerful BBF is? Lulling us into an alcohol/Kool-Aid induced euphoric state such that we are able to ignore the full-time associates? They work hours that would make 19th-century child laborers blanch. On the other hand, they get paid a small fortune, which is more than we can say for the child laborers. I don't know if it's a forever job, but it's certainly a neat place to start.

With #2 comes...The Summer Associate Lunch. BBF is a great place to work, and there is clearly an element of work hard/play hard that is alive and well at the firm. This manifests itself as an almost-obsessive relationship with food. Every firm event has cheese and sushi and passed appetizers and wine and beer and liquor and and and...They seem to have taken Oscar Wilde's quip that nothing succeeds like excess to the logical extreme, culinary-wise. When they are not plying us with passed appetizers at evening events, we are being carted off to Legal Sea Foods and Cafe Fleuri for 3-course lunches. I have been doubling my trips to the gym and stopped eating dinner just to keep up.

All of this eating, though, has led me to an important discovery. While I like to eat and enjoy food, what I really like to do is cook and to share the eating experience with friends. I've been eating at all these fancy-schmancy restaurants and I take much less joy than I'd expect in eating the (magnificent and excessive) food. I'd be much happier going to Cosi and getting a cup of tomato basil soup and sitting in the quiet. Or, better yet, bringing a picnic lunch and popping a squat in Post Office Square with my friends.

All this by way of saying - I'm glad I'm home for the weekend so that I can cook a little. In the meantime, I'm going to dream of sandwiches.

Ultimate Simple Toasted Cheese Sandwiches
(makes 2)

Note: This is hardly a recipe - it's more of a technique. The key to a good toasted cheese sandwich is high-quality ingredients, particularly great bread. Look for something crusty with a little give - smooshy enough to meld with the filling, but hearty enough not to disintegrate. In other words, no Wonder Bread or similar product. If you don't like this combination, other combinations that would work well are listed after the recipe.

4 1/2"-thick slices of fresh sourdough bread (if you are in the market for a good local bakery, I highly recommend Clear Flower on Thorndike Street in Brookline. More on this next post)
1 1/4-lb. block extra-sharp cheddar cheese
3/4 tsp. Dijon mustard (or other mustard, if you are so inclined)
1 large or 2 medium ripe tomatoes
salt and pepper to taste
olive oil (either spray or bottled with a pastry brush)

1. If you have a panini press or similar counter-top sandwich press, preheat it for several minutes. If cooking on the stovetop, use a cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat (and still pre-heat for a couple minutes). Meanwhile, slice the tomatoes and cheese into 1/4" slices, enough to cover the bread.

2. Lightly spread the interior of each slice of bread with the mustard and sprinkle with a bit of salt and fresh-ground pepper.

3. Spray or brush the exterior side of the two bottom pieces of bread with olive oil and lay on the griddle. Layer tomatoes, then cheese, and the top layer of bread, and again spray/brush with olive oil.

4. Cook for about 5 minutes (watching closely) or until bread exterior is crunchy and golden and cheese has melted. If cooking in a skillet, flip sandwich after ~4 minutes, pressing down on sandwich to achieve maximum smoosh (that's a technical term). Serve hot, before tomatoes make bread soggy. Goes great with tomato soup.

Alternative fillings:

~White cheddar, apple and honey mustard or just plain honey.
~Manchego and sliced dried Calamyra figs (honey drizzle optional)
~Gruyere, spinach and thinly sliced sweet onion
~Mozzerella, roasted red pepper and maple-balsamic vinaigrette or any form of pesto.
~(if you're feeling really decadent) Peanut butter and fruit (apples/bananas/strawberries) with Nutella or honey.

Jew-ish Penicillin

Hello Blogosphere,

I do sometimes wonder if anyone actually reads this blog or whether this is the internet equivalent of talking to one's self - speaking to the void. Well, oh void, oh cyber-vastness, have I got a treat for you. I am about to reveal my recipe for the holy of holies, matzoh ball soup. Matzoh ball soup is a cure for the ages. Much like Windex in My Big Fat Greek Wedding, matzoh ball soup cures headaches, stomachaches, and all matter of gastro-intestinal ailment. I have not tried it for skin problems, but that doesn't mean it wouldn't work (though it might get a little sticky).

It's been a very busy couple of weeks at the KosherHome - Pesach this year, unfortunately, coincided with reading week for law school exams, which then rolled into travelling, which then somersaulted into the first couple weeks of work at Big Boston Firm. However, this worked out pretty well, all told, because I had a giant vat of matzoh ball soup to live off of for the last few weeks (obviously some of it frozen). My Beloved Professor (whose true identity will remain secret, but who I hold dear to my nerdy little heart) told us a story in class the last week of classes about a time as an undergrad where he and his roommate were both taking the same exam, a 24 hour take-home, and his roommate got up in the middle of the exam and made soup. (Incidentally, they received the same grade on the exam).

BP, it seemed, was baffled by this impulse, but I totally understood. Soup is comforting - it is familiar. And, unless you are trying to be all artisanal and crazy, it really doesn't take very long to make. I mean, really, 30 minutes of prep time, tops, and you have a whole vat of soup. Soup stretches expensive ingredients to make another meal and makes cheap ingredients seem vast and filling. It is also a great gift - no one in their right mind turns down soup.

I didn't used to like soup and it took me a long time to figure out why. It's because canned soup is gross. Really gross. Totally packed with chemicals and additives because we all know that meat and dairy are not meant to be held at room temperature for long periods of time, and that is exactly what canned soup does. The only exception I have found to the "canned soup is gross" rule is Trader Joe's Creamy Tomato, which is not gross, and which (with sufficient application of frozen spinach and a teaspoon of pesto) can be quite a nice light dinner when accompanied by a roll and a salad. Actually, in general, canned tomato or other similar "one note" vegetable-based canned soups can be okay. But, otherwise, gross.

But do not fear, gentle readers - homemade soup is just around the corner. Two posts ago, I discussed my cooked-from-the-pantry Slightly-Curried-Pumpkin-Soup, and before that I also posted about Kitchen Sink Chili, but this, my friends, is the piece de resistance, the holiest of holies, Matzoh Ball Soup. It is good enough to eat year round. I've included the usual suspects (i.e. winter/early spring) veggies below, but this would also be really good with spring/summer veggies like zucchini, tomatoes and spring onions. More on this below.

Wondrous Matzoh Ball Soup

For Soup:
2 tbsn EVOO
1 medium onion, peeled and cut into 1" dice
2 cups baby carrots, cut into 1/2" chunks
2-5 carcasses from roasted chickens
2 cups leftover roasted chicken meat (or shredded cooked chicken breast or thigh meat)
1 cup celery (optional)
1 bay leaf
1 sprig fresh or 1/2 tsp. dried rosemary branches fresh or 1/2 tsp. dried thyme (if using fresh herbs, tie them together for easy retrieval later. NOTE: If you cooked the roasted chickens with herbs and you didn't clean the carcasses to remove the cooked herbs, reduce the fresh/dried herbs here accordingly).
4 kosher bouillon cubes (optional, but useful if you're using a very large stockpot - see below)
1 1/2 gallons water (give or take) plus more at the ready

For Matzoh Balls:
8 eggs
1 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. dried thyme or other herbs (optional)
1 tsp. dehydrated onion or 1/4 c. minced fresh onion, squeezed dry.
2 tbsn parve margarine, melted
1 1/2 c. matzoh meal

Note: Use a large stockpot. The larger the pot, the more chickens you will need. If you have a limited # of chickens and want a lot of soup, then add a few kosher bouillon cubes (I use Telma brand) to help jumpstart. Canned vegetable broth can also make a nice addition. Reduced sodium products are always preferrable to the regular kind.

Directions:
1. In a large stockpot over medium heat, add EVOO and onions. Cook until translucent. Add bay leaf, carrots, celery (if using) and chicken carcasses and cook for about 5 additional minutes, stirring occasionally and scraping browned bits from the bottom of the pot. Fill pot with water. If using bouillon, crumble bouillon into water. Bring to a boil (this make take a while).
2. Meanwhile, make matzoh balls. Stir dry ingredients together until well mixed. In a separate bowl, beat eggs until fluffy. Add oil and stir, then add to dry ingredients. Cover and refridgerate for about 40 minutes.
3. When soup comes to a rolling boil, reduce heat to a simmer and allow to simmer at least 30 minutes (but you can let it simmer for a LONG time - really, up to 2 hours is fine. Remember that the longer you simmer, however, the softer the vegetables will be).
4. When you are ready, remove chicken carcasses with a pair of tongs or a large spoon (being careful not to burn yourself and/or drop the chicken on the floor) and move to cutting board. Cut away any remaining meat on the carcasses and put it back in the stockpot.
5. Meanwhile, with lightly greased hands, form matzoh balls (small or large). Do NOT mush them together - take a gentle scoop and roll it just enough to make a ball.
6. Raise the temperature on the soup. Slowly drop matzoh balls into soup (be careful of the splash). Cover and simmer about 15 minutes. Add shredded chicken and cook 5 minutes more, then remove from heat. Wait 5 minutes and serve, being careful not to include bones in any servings.
7. You will have leftovers. If you do not, you are doing something wrong. When the leftover soup has cooled sufficiently, sift (with clean hands, of course) through the bottom to remove any bones/chicken skin/bay leaf/etc. Cool a little longer, then pop stockpot in the fridge. Cool overnight. If a layer of fat forms at the top, remove before putting into tupperware containers to store. This soup freezes well.

Happy eating.

Singin' the Pesach Blues

Blogosphere, I have been sadly remiss in not posting during Pesach. I'll be honest - I don't have good Pesach recipes. I talk a good game, but in reality I roast five chickens for second night Seder and then live off of chicken soup, matzoh, spinach, fruit and cheese (obviously not all together) for the rest of the week. My friend Lilly wants to make matzoh ball soup and roast chicken tonight, so I will try to post that this evening. However, if you have inspiration for good Pesach recipes that I've been missing, I would appreciate them!

How to Cook Out of the Pantry

There are points in my life where I find myself with random pantry items in need of use, and last night was one of these times.

I had just finished making Comfort Food Risotto with some leftover mushrooms, shredded carrots, baby spinach, and fresh ricotta (left over from a brunch I hosted the weekend before), and I had about 3 cups of leftover vegetable broth.

And half an onion.

And two sorry-looking, slightly mealy apples.

And so I got to thinking. What could I make with those three ingredients (broth, onion, mealy apples) that wouldn't involve going to the store (this all the more important because an accident on the main drag had reduced my neighborhood to a parking lot). I took a page from one of my favorite bloggers, Heidi Swanson at 101 Cookbooks, and looked through my pantry to see what was to be had. Deep in the back, on the highest shelf, I hit the jackpot - two cans of Libby's Solid Pack Pumpkin. I scrounged around on another shelf and found a can of light coconut milk, and my recipe idea was shaped - a slightly curried pumpkin soup, all of whose ingredients came from the pantry or from the depths of the root vegetable drawer of the fridge.

As a busy student (and before that, a busy professional) who is nonetheless committed to cooking for herself regularly, having a well-stocked pantry is really essential, because I grocery shop once a week in a good week, and sometimes less than that.

At the same time, I have limited pantry shelf space, so prioritizing what to have available becomes important - it can be the difference between eating a healthy meal made at home (saving money!) and ordering pizza. I'm going to work on a comprehensive list of my essential pantry items and post it next week (as we are gearing up for Pesach, when 90% of said essential pantry items will be living in a box in the storage closet for the week), but in the meantime, the recipe:

Slightly Curried Hurried Pumpkin Soup (pareve)
1 tbsn olive oil
1/2 medium onion in 1/2" dice
2 large apples, peeled and cored, in 1/2" dice
2 medium white potatoes, peeled and in 1/2" dice
2 small cans plain pumpkin
1 can light coconut milk
3 c. vegetable stock
2 canfuls (probably about 4 cups) water
1/2 tsp. cumin
1/2 tsp. garlic powder
2/3 c. honey

1. In the bottom of a medium stock pot, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until translucent. Add the apple and the potatoes and cook until the onions are beginning to turn golden and the apple and potatoes are starting to get soft.
2. Add pumpkin, coconut milk, stock and water. Stir, then bring to a boil.
3. Add spices and honey, then reduce to a simmer and let simmer about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. If it looks too thick, add more water.
4. Remove from heat and allow to cool 10 minutes. If you have an immersion blender (a glorious tool, indeed), puree the soup in the pot. If not, you can either cool the soup further and put it in your real blender/food processor, OR you can use a potato masher to break up the apple and potato pieces at the bottom of the soup to get it better blended and eat it slightly chunky.
5. Serve hot. This would be great with a large salad and a piece of bread spread with chevre.

On a side note, so long as the honey and broth were hechshered for Pesach, this would be a great Pesach-friendly recipe.

Enjoy!

How can Manischewitz do this to us?

I received horrible news yesterday about Passover.

No, I already knew about the whole no-bread thing.

Rather, I read this deeply disappointing article in the NYTimes about Manischewitz and its plant problems that have caused a shortage of Tam Tams and Thin Tea Matzohs. How can they do this to us? Why must this be? These are the only two forms of matzoh that I actually LIKE!!!

Sigh. Well, I guess Passover this year will be even more culinarily miserable than usual. In the meantime, I am scouring shelves for good matzoh. If you have any suggestions, let me know.

Say "Cheese"

I was, not for the first time, faced with a rennet dilemma this weekend.

I love cheese. It is no secret that if it is made from dairy, I have an almost overwhelming desire to eat it. To put it, as my friend Austin often says, in my mouf. Preferrably with some bread. Or crackers. Or pasta. Or rice. I'm equal opportunity, really. Dairy + starch = Yum.

You can sense, dear readers, a "but" coming on. The problem with cheese (correction: the problem with my unadulterated love of cheese) is that most cheeses (particularly aged cheeses) are made with rennet. Rennet, as some of you may know, is an enzyme that helps cheese to coagulate. Remember Little Miss Muffett? Her curds and whey were the result of a coagulation process in which the fat solids of the milk (the curds) pulled away from the water and sugar (the whey) in the milk with a little help from our friend rennet. Not all cheese is made from rennet, and not all rennet is bad. Some rennet is vegetarian, derived from yeast, mushrooms, and the like. Other rennet, however, is taken from the stomaches of calves or other animals.

Rabbis are divided as to whether rennet that comes from animal products are "meat" for the purposes of kashrut. Some would argue that such cheese made with animal rennet would be treif both because it would mix milk and meat AND because it would be difficult to figure out whether the animal was kosher. On the other hand, when a noted Talmudic sage was asked the question of whether such a cheese would be treif, "hayseo ledavar achayr," - he changed the subject. The other twist is that there is a rule in kashrut in which something that a dog wouldn't eat wouldn't be considered "food." Would a dog eat rennet (which is pretty chemically and gross)? No definitive ruling has ever been made, of course.

Thus, if a cheesemaker uses animal rennet, her cheese may or may not be treif. Yet, the USDA doesn't require cheesemakers to say what kind of rennet they use. So, it's hard to know unless cheese is hecshered whether the cheese is "Kosher" or not. Some rabbis have argued that the USDA's rules for milk and cheese are sufficient that there should not be a need for kosher certification, but this rule is still very much in the minority.

In other words, the jury is still out.

My rule of thumb is as follows: I buy kosher cheese whenever I can. Because almost all cheeses made in the U.S. are made with microbial (parve) rennet and most of these microbial rennet manufacturers are hecshered, I err on the side of buying US-made cheeses without hecshers unless they specify that they are made with animal rennet.

For foreign-derived cheeses (why do all the good ones fall into this category????), I take it on a case-by-case basis. If the label says animal rennet, I don't eat it. If it's a longer-aged or hard cheese (which more commonly uses animal rennet), I won't eat it. If it's a fresh cheese, which requires less coagulation, then I usually say it's okay. Does this make me less frum than I feel I should be? You betcha. So, with that long explanation, I give you a recipe.

Trader Joes is lovely because they offer a variety of kosher cheese. I've been a big fan of their feta and their lite chevre, and they also sell Cabot products, most of which are hecshered . I also LOVE Joseph's Soy and Flax flatbreads - they are 60 calories and make a wonderful sandwich, pizza, or tostada base.

Because so many of my recipes are cheesy and I have posted so many, I thought I'd post a couple of kugel recipes. I made one of these for the law schools "Taste of Diversity"...Shockingly, the Jewish Law Students Association were one of the only groups that had food left at the end of the event...because running out of food is a terrible sin. Anyway, both of these recipes utilize lovely yummy kosher cheese. :-)

Easy Applesauce Kugel

8 oz. package medium or fine noodles (I use medium)
8 oz. cream cheese (at room temperature)
1/2 c. (1 stick) unsalted butter (at room temperature)
1/2 pint sour cream
4 large eggs, beaten
1/2 c. plus 1 tbsn. white or light brown sugar
15 oz applesauce (I prefer unsweetened)
1 tsp. vanilla
1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon

1. Cook noodles according to package directions in unsalted water. When cooked, drain and immediately return to the pan. Add butter and cream cheese, stirring until melted. Mix in 1/2 c. sugar and sour cream. Mix in eggs, applesauce and vanilla.

2. Pour into one large or two smaller baking dishes and top with remaining sugar and cinnamon. Bake 1 hour at 350 degrees. Serve warm or at room temperature. Kugel is also wonderful as leftovers (if you have any left).

Easy-Cheesy Potato and Spinach Kugel

I am sucker for all things cheese-and-spinach.

1 1/2 lbs. shredded potatoes (shredded hashbrown potatoes in the grocery store's refrigerated section work fine, if you are short on time, or you can use the food processor), squeezed dry.

1/2 medium onion, finely chopped (if you are using the food processor to grate the potatoes, throw the onion in too)
1 1/2 c. frozen chopped spinach, thawed and squeezed dry
1 1/2 c. + 1/4 cup shredded kosher cheddar or other hard cheese (this recipe is very flexible)
3/4 c. light sour cream
2 eggs, beaten
2 tbsn. olive oil or melted butter
1 tsp. dijon mustard or 1/2 tsp. dry mustard
1/4 tsp. garlic powder or 1/2 tsp. minced/crushed garlic
salt and pepper to taste

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees and place oven rack in the middle. Lightly oil a medium casserole dish.
2. Mix together potatoes, onion, spinach, and 1 1/2 c. shredded cheese in a large bowl.
3. In a separate bowl, mix together eggs, oil/butter, sour cream, mustard, garlic (powder), salt, and pepper.
4. Pour wet ingredients into dry ingredients and mix thoroughly. Pour into casserole dish and top with remaining cheddar.
5. Bake 1 hour. If top is not golden, set oven to broil and broil 3-5 minutes until cheese is gooey and brown on top. Serve hot.

This recipe also freezes well (and is kosher for passover).

Superbowl of Chili

So, in the NYTimes this week there was a disgusting article about how double-dipping is the equivalent of french kissing everyone at the party (because you transfer your saliva into the dip, which other people then eat). So, having thoroughly freaked myself out over the idea of eating anything that didn't come in an individual serving-sized container, I propose an alternative: Kitchen Sink Chili.

Kitchen Sink Chili is exactly what it sounds like - you start with a basic chili base (canned tomatoes, beans, onion, garlic, spices) and then you add...whatever you happen to have laying around. Carrots? You got it. Corn? Perfect. Other/different/better beans? Sure thing. Green veggies? Yummo. (Got you with that Rachael Ray reference, didn't I? You know I did). Kitchen Sink Chili accomplishes 4 (count 'em, 4!) objectives:

1. Feeds the Masses - you can make Kitchen Sink Chili in a crock pot (and, if you don't cook the onions and garlic first, you can actually cook the whole thing in one pot. Personally, I like the onions and garlic cooked first, but still, that's only one minor extra frying pan). It is delicious, and you can cook it all day (and/or all night) and it tastes awesome. In fact, the longer the flavors meld together, the better you are. This is one of those great recipes that tastes even better the third day than the first day (and goodness knows we need more of those recipes).

2. Provides Double-Dip-Free Dipping - No one eats from a communal bowl of chili. It's just not done. I mean, you have to think about toppings, and spiciness, and all that stuff, and everyone likes their chili just so and, let's face it, no one wants to share a bowl of this deliciousness with someone else. BUT, at the same time, chili is great for chip-dipping. Who doesn't like corn chips and chili (okay, I admit, if you are in the early stages of a relationship with the olfactorily sensitive, you may want to go easy on the beans)? So, you can accomplish the dip, even the double dip, without passing your nasty mouth cooties on to everyone else. Genius.

3. Clean out Your Vegetable Drawer/Freezer - I will admit, I don't eat nearly as many fresh veggies as I should. I am, however, a big proponent of frozen veggies, which have 95% of the vitamins and minerals of fresh and yet keep forever. That said, they also come in awkward-sized bags. For some reason, I ALWAYS end up with 3/4 cup of frozen corn kernels, or carrot slices, or chopped baby spinach. Not enough to make into a side dish (once the ice melts, that's really about 1/2 cup of cooked veggies), but too much to justify throwing away. This recipe is a great place to throw in those frozen veggies - and because there are so many different flavors, you never feel deprived of any one veggie. Likewise, this is also a great recipe for fresh vegetables slightly past their prime. That half-eaten bag of baby carrots in the fridge that has dried out? Chop 'em up and throw them in the pot. Those slightly shriveled grape tomatoes? A quick rinse is all they need. I haven't tried broccoli in the chili, but I could see it working if you chopped it up first. Finally, if you are like me and sometimes find yourself with half-open packages of low-fat cream cheese/(dairy or soy), then this is a great place to get rid of them - just cube and stir in.

4. Freeze Ahead - This chili freezes really well. It also reheats well. It is a great three-season (fall/winter/spring) dish, and I heartily recommend it.

Kitchen Sink Chili

Chili Base

2 large cans roasted/stewed whole tomatoes in paste/sauce (Muir Glen's Fire-Roasted Tomatoes are my faves, but any kind will do - but you want the big-ass cans, not the regular-sized ones)
2-3 cans beans (pinto, black, and great northern are good choices, but if you like kidney or garbanzo beans, they can also work).
1 medium onion, coarsely chopped
5 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced
1/2 tsp. chili powder
1/4 tsp. cumin
2 chiles in adobo sauce (optional) *
1/2 cap liquid smoke (optional)

Add-Ins
- Zucchini, coarsely chopped
- Sliced baby carrots
- frozen spinach, collard greens, or kale
- corn kernels (canned/frozen)
- green beans
- cubed low fat cream cheese (dairy/soy)

Toppings
- Sliced ripe avocados
- Low-fat grated cheese (any kind)
- Light sour cream (I will disown you if you get fat-free sour cream. You might as well eat wallpaper paste)
- Chopped fresh scallions
- Sliced/chopped tomatoes

Accompaniments
- Tortilla chips (lots and lots of tortilla chips. Yum.)
- Rice (any kind)
- Hearty white or light wheat bread, preferably toasted
- Fresh tortillas (flour or corn)

* I like my chili moderately spicy but I never seem to use a whole can of chiles before they go bad. I have, however, recently discovered that you can freeze the whole can, in a ziplock bag, and when you need a chile, just sort of chisel one out with a butter knife. The adobo sauce doesn't really harden, and you would end up chopping the chile anyway, so what's the difference? For a big pot of chili, you want about a tablespoon of chiles/sauce (more if you like five-alarm chili). And the chiles keep for several weeks in the freezer, so it's all good. This discussion of chilis and chiles is confusing, but you get the idea.

Let me know how it turns out!

Friends and Foods and Shortrifle

Hello Buddies!

I was lucky enough to have two of my best friends from college over for dinner last night (and a lovely friend-in-law as well). It's so nice to have people in my life who, no matter how long it has been since you've seen them, just totally "get it" and get you and are so comfortable. I wish I got to see them more often, but I am always grateful when I do see them.

We had some yummy risotto on Sunday, which I have already posted below, and a big Greek salad, but I have discovered a new, quick and easy dessert that I am totally obsessed with. It is something between a shortcake and a trifle - a shortrifle, if you will. So, here is the first recipe of the year (sad that it's been almost two months since I posted, but I will start posting them again). This is a slight variation on the original way I served it, but I think it makes a better presentation.

Mixed Berry Shortrifle (serves 8)

Topping
1 cup cored, sliced strawberries
1 cup washed and halved blackberries
1 cup washed raspberries
2 tbsn lemon juice
1/4 cup confectioners sugar
1/4 cinnamon, nutmeg or pumpkin pie spice blend (optional)

1 loaf Entenmann's pound cake, sliced into 1/4" slices (as thin as possible)

1 tub vanilla ice cream ( I used Trader Joe's vanilla gelato, but you could pretty much go with any brand, or with custard or whipped cream).

Mix the topping ingredients together and allow to sit at room temperature about 30 minutes to macerate. The berries should release their juices.


Shortly before serving, take ice cream out of the freezer to soften.

Layer cake and berries twice and (cake as base, berries, cake, berries) then top with ice cream/other dairy. If you have leftover berries, you can drizzle them around the plate. You could also cube the cake and layer the ingredients in a tall glass and make it a parfait-type dessert. Yum.